The road to the border

Sunday 12 July 2026 Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland Above: Landschlacht, Canton Thurgau, Switzerland I sit at my laptop and I write. About places I have known, conversations I have heard and people I have observed in the hope that my own experiences are rich enough material. It is only 0900 but I have been up… Continue reading The road to the border

What’s in a name?

Tuesday 7 July 2026 Sighnaghi, Signagi Municipality, Kakheti, Georgia Above: Sighnaghi, Signagi Municipality, Kakheti, Georgia In four hours I ride to Tbilisi Airport to catch my 0600 flight to Zürich. Above: Tbilisi International Airport, Tbilisi, Georgia Above: Zürich, Canton Zürich, Switzerland I will miss travelling – been doing this since 10 May – and my… Continue reading What’s in a name?

Mad honey

Sunday 5 July 2026 Sighnaghi, Signagi Municipality, Georgia As my days decrease here in this country, my chronicles come closer to arriving in it. Mad honey has been intoxicating travellers along the Black Sea coast for over 2,000 years…. Sunday 10 May 2026 Trabzon-Rize Shuttle Bus The Difficult Daughter A day that began as a… Continue reading Mad honey

The big chill / The last station

Above: Lev Tolstoy railway station, Russia Wednesday 7 December 2025 Ankara, Türkiye Above: Ankara in winter “We live only to discover beauty. All else is a form of waiting.” Kahlil Gibran Above: Lebanese-American writer Kahlil Gibran (1883 – 1931) I sit in my room on a December evening in Ankara with the windows open to… Continue reading The big chill / The last station

Lament of the Akedah

Saturday 6 December 2025 Ankara, Türkiye There are stories humanity tells itself when the world grows too large to understand. Among the oldest, the Akedah — the Binding of Isaac — stands as a wound passed from generation to generation. A father raises a knife over his own child, convinced that the divine has demanded… Continue reading Lament of the Akedah

Invisible

Christian Friedrich Hebbel (1813 – 1863) was a German  dramatist, lyric poet and novelist. Above: Friedrich Hebbel Besides his major works, the two tragedies Agnes Bernauer and Maria Magdalena, his love poems such as Sie seh’n sich nicht wieder (They Will Not See Each Other Again) and Wenn die Rosen ewig blühten (When the Roses Bloom Forever), nature poems such as Sommerbild (Summer Picture) and Herbstbild (Autumn… Continue reading Invisible

Café de la Paix

Sunday 26 October 2025 Ankara, Türkiye The night is still heavy over Ankara when you wake, not to the call of inspiration, but to the high-pitched drone of a mosquito. It is 3:30 a.m. Outside, the world sleeps. Inside, something stirs — part irritation, part calling. The kind that brings a man to lace his… Continue reading Café de la Paix

The Death of Time

Tuesday 21 October 2025 Ankara, Türkiye Above: View from the mall at the base of Atakule TV tower in Ankara, Türkiye Time was wheeled onto the operating table at 3:47 PM. Its pulse fluttering like a bird trapped in a glass cage. Breath shallow, heart laboring beneath the harsh fluorescent glare of endless screens. The… Continue reading The Death of Time

The ostrich in the room

Sunday 5 October 2025 Ankara, Türkiye Above: Başkent Millet Bahçesi Park, Ankara, Türkiye There is an old story about the ostrich, repeated since the days of Pliny the Elder, that when danger approaches the bird buries its head in the sand, imagining that what it cannot see cannot see it. In Natural History, Pliny the… Continue reading The ostrich in the room

The cheese transporter

“Inside every human being, there is a loneliness greater than any storm. Some try to fill it with people, others with dreams. And a few, poor souls, only ever find the silence inside growing louder.” Sabahattin Ali, Kürk Mantolu Madonna (Madonna in a Fur Coat) Above: Turkish writer Sabahattin Ali Spring arrived this week, with… Continue reading The cheese transporter